Then breakfast: bacon and eggs, fried potatoes, coffee. Northeast of Moab in a region of gargoyles and hobgoblins, a landscape left over from the late Jurassic, is a peculiar little waterhole named Onion Spring. My friend Newcomb, for instance. We rig the tarpaulins into a tent, preparing for rain, and eat our supper of pancakes on which we pour a sauce of stewed raisins, in place of the syrup we havent got. Cupping my hands I take a drink. We faced each other across some fifty feet of sand and rock. In the afternoon he came into a larger canyon, through which flowed a small stream. Smoking peacefully, we watch the golden light of afternoon climb the eastern wall as the sun goes down beyond the rim to the west. I am here not only to evade for a while the clamor and filth and confusion of the cultural apparatus but also to confront, immediately and directly if its possible, the bare bones of existence, the elemental and fundamental, the bedrock which sustains us. (Could there be a more genuine testimonial to its beauty and integrity?) Drinking water is available half a mile upstream at a tributary spring. Equipped with powerful scintillometers, they cruised in airplanes back and forth above the Colorado Plateau, mapping the hot spots. Halfway down I lose the slab Im riding and go on for a piece without it. A few flies are already circling above the dark shape on the stretcher. In compound low, engine overheating, radiator at boiling point, I keep going, looking for a certain dim trail off to the right into the aspens; it comes, I turn off the road and drive through an opening in a derelict rail fence, brush beneath leafy boughs and emerge in a small grassy glade surrounded on all sides but one by solid ranks of aspens. Ralph, peaceful as a hanging judge, is already sound asleep. But am diverted by a faint pathway which looks as if it might lead up out of the canyon, above Rainbow Bridge. I feel myself sinking into the landscape, fixed in place like a stone, like a tree, a small motionless shape of vague outline, desert-colored, and with the wings of imagination look down at myself through the eyes of the bird, watching a human figure that becomes smaller, smaller in the receding landscape as the bird rises into the evening a man at a table near a twinkling campfire, surrounded by a rolling wasteland of stone and dune and sandstone monuments, the wasteland surrounded by dark canyons and the course of rivers and mountain ranges on a vast plateau stretching across Colorado, Utah, New Mexico and Arizona, and beyond this plateau more deserts and greater mountains, the Rockies in dusk, the Sierra Nevadas shining in their late afternoon, and farther and farther yet, the darkened East, the gleaming Pacific, the curving margins of the great earth itself, and beyond earth that ultimate world of sun and stars whose bounds we cannot discover. Still chilly enough inside the trailer to turn my breath to vapor. Our, "Sooo much more helpful thanSparkNotes. My only reservation concerning the mice is that they do attract rattlesnakes. A smell of burning coffee on the wind. The heart-shaped prints of deer led in and out. That was all the Indians had in stock. I studied the evidence for a while, trying to figure everything out for myself before mentioning it to Mackie, who knew this country far better than I ever would. His departure makes room for the living. As Spoonhead told me afterwards, grinning around broken teeth, its not every day you get a chance to wallop a Hualapai. The experiment was a complete success; it will never be necessary to perform it again. (You could set your watch by them). And risky. Mountain people tend to become inbred and degenerate, get goiters, and no one for a long time has lived in the sea. Inside were three sunburned men in twill britches and engineering boots, and a pile of equipment: transit case, tripod, survey rod, bundles of wooden stakes. I have a glimpse of the willows on the shore sweeping past, the only available gauge of our velocity, before we grab the paddles, settle deep into the boats and go to work trying to keep our bows headed into the waves. With regulations enforced by water cops in government uniforms. eh? No one has a definite answer to that question but several possible explanations come to mind when you see them, in their strange and isolated settings, for the first time. Facing downhill with my heels braced in the snow, I straddle the rock, grasp and elevate its forward edge with both hands (my stick tucked under my arm) and sit down firmly, taking a deep breath. You'll be able to access your notes and highlights, make requests, and get updates on new titles. He explores plants, too: by May, a nearby juniper has particularly obsessed him, as the 300-year-old tree seems tied to another realm. What is it thats haunting me? I took another step forward, pressing against a branch. As before I let my pony drink what he wanted from the stream while I pondered the view from beneath the meager shelter of my hat. Over my shoulder comes the sizzle and smell of frying bacon. I examine my soul: white as snow. And is the evolutionary line from protozoan to Spinoza any less certain? Climbing the rise behind the housetrailer I watch them go, the truck visible for a mile or so before the road winds deeper into the complex of sand dunes, corraded monoliths and hogback ridges to the west. In the bark of the nearest aspen, deeply inscribed, are the initials C.E.M., without a date. With evening come elaborate sunsets in every named and unnamed hue of gold, purple, crimson, green, orange and blue, spread out for fifty or a hundred miles among the floating ranks of clouds, with spokes of light radiating across the sky all the way from the western to the eastern horizon. To human ears their music has a bleak, dismal, tragic quality, dirgelike rather than jubilant. Look at those tracks unshod. White water ahead, says Ralph quietly, with a sort of complacent satisfaction, as if he had invented the phenomenon all by himself. lets get cracking with this dump. No rapids here; only a subtle roiling of the water, ripples corresponding to the ripples on the rivers sandy bed. Mrs. Husk said that she was serious too and that on second thought perhaps $237,000 would be a more reasonable figure. When I got back to my horse I was too tired to climb immediately into the saddle; it seemed easier for a while to walk and lead the horse. Pine nuts are delicious, sweeter than hazelnuts but difficult to eat; you have to crack the shells in your teeth and then, because they are smaller than peanut kernels, you have to separate the meat from the shell with your tongue. The lambs, accustomed by tradition to their role, do not complain; and the sheepmen, who run their hooved locusts on the public lands and are heavily subsidized, most of them as hog-rich as they are pigheaded, can easily afford these trifling losses. Rural insurrections can then be suppressed only by bombing and burning villages and countryside so thoroughly that the mass of the population is forced to take refuge in the cities, where the people are then policed and if necessary starved into submission. Then comfortably readjusted, the river flows on and the only noise, aside from that of scattered birds, is the ripple of the water, the gurgling eddies off the sandspits, the sound of Newcomb puffing on his old pipe. Rain or sun its all one to me. Get out of that mud, I said, and lets get out of here. But there is still too much to see and marvel at, the world very much alive in the bright light and wind, exultant with the fever of spring, the delight of morning. Powell knew the inner gorge of the Grand Canyon as a terrible and gloomy underworld, scene of much physical and mental suffering for himself and his men, but despite this and despite all that had happened in his explorations, he would write of the canyon as a whole in panegyric accent: The glories and the beauties of form, color and sound unite in the Grand Canyon forms unrivaled even by the mountains, colors that vie with sunsets, and sounds that span the diapason from tempest to tinkling raindrop, from cataract to bubbling fountain, You cannot see the Grand Canyon in one view, as if it were a changeless spectacle from which a curtain might be lifted, but to see it you have to toil from month to month through its labyrinths. It means nothing. He turns around and walks back. Alone-ness became loneliness and the sensation was strong enough to remind me (how could I have forgotten?) Next I unloaded the horse, smacked her on the rump and sent her back to the village. The ascent of Tukuhnikivats has taken me half the day, the descent from summit to timberline less than half an hour. In the morning the wind is still blowing, its much colder, and the entire sky is dark with storm clouds threatening rain or possibly, judging by the chill in the air, even snow. He has taken a job with the National Park Service and reports for duty at the headquarters building just north of Moab. to represent 1 single character. I could hardly have picked a more hostile day for a venture into the canyons. The general atmosphere is free and friendly, quite unlike the sad, sour gloom of most bars I have known, where nervous men in tight collars brood over their drinks between out-of-tune TV screens and a remorseless clock. Ask rather, is there intelligent life on earth? The dull, painful creaking of the branches in the wind indicates, however, an internal effort at liberation. Tilted the canteen to my mouth. Soon, park superintendent Merle McRae and chief ranger Floyd Bence bring Abbey some supplies. You can see a photograph of what I did in Eliot Porters beautiful book on Glen Canyon. I set a light grill over the flames and on the grill roll out a big thin tough beefsteak, which happens to be the kind of beefsteak I prefer. In the lights of the truck I unlocked the housetrailer, got out bedroll and baggage and moved in. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Desert Solitaire by Edward Abbey (1988, Hardcover, Reprint,Anniversary) at the best online prices at eBay! Snow was swirling through the air when I crossed the unfenced line and passed the boundary marker of the park. The rest survive, mate, multiply, burrow, estivate, dream, and rise again. It is cup-shaped, filled with golden stamens that respond with sensitive, one might almost say sensual, tenderness to the entrance of a bee. Springtime on the mountains. The moon was high enough to cast a good light when I reached the place where the gray jeep had first come into view. A few big ravens hang around and croak harsh clanking statements of smug satisfaction from the rimrock, lifting their greasy wings now and then to probe for lice. Where they came from, how they got into the trailer, how they survived before my arrival (for the trailer had been locked up for six months), these are puzzling matters I am not prepared to resolve. There is no trouble: getting up proves to be no harder than coming down, though we do find it necessary to add a little water to the radiator when we arrive on top. (1) No more cars in national parks. Like putting on chain mail. Hard to say and yet, when they found it, they could not fail to recognize it. A branch, it seemed, of the Grand Canyon. Then they attacked my eyes, drawn irresistibly by the liquid shine of the human eyeball. In the afternoons of July and August we may get thundershowers but an hour after the storms pass the surface of the desert is again bone dry. Something like a yellow rash has broken out upon the mountainsides the aspen forests in their autumn splendor. web pages And when the buzzards are through with you, Moon-Eye and youll be glad when, Moon-Eye watched me as I spoke; I watched him. [11], In two chapters entitled Cowboys and Indians, Abbey describes his encounters with Roy and Viviano ("cowboys") and the Navajo of the area ("Indians"), finding both to be victims of a fading way of life in the Southwest, and in desperate need of better solutions to growing problems and declining opportunities. And they stay away because of the unpaved entrance road, the unflushable toilets in the campgrounds, and the fact that most of them have never even heard of Arches National Monument. We traverse the red ledge in a westerly direction and find some notches through which we can climb down to the bulging, rounded, buff-colored rock of the Cutler formation, principal material of The Maze and of the similar Needles area on the east side of the river. (Because of erosion.) I wait. Why, a man could lose his mind in those incomprehensible distances. No mistaking that wedgelike head, that tip of horny segmented tail peeping out of the coils. The cattle clattered and skidded on the bare rock; sparks flew from the iron-shod hooves of the horses. A bat came through one window and went out another, followed by a second firefly (the first scooped up by the bat) and a host of mosquitoes, which did not leave. Throughout the book, Abbey describes his vivid and moving encounters with nature in her various forms: animals, storms, trees, rock formations, cliffs and mountains.He communicates an uncommon reverence for nature, and an unmistakable disdain for tame . Across that narrow opening a small white cloud was passing, so lovely and precious and delicate and forever inaccessible that it broke the heart and made me weep like a woman, like a child. Hot in there, I say, though Ralph has asked no questions. It is the southern end of the Waterpocket Fold, a fifty-mile-long monocline or ridge of warped sandstone, eroded along its base into triangular studs of naked rock that look, from here, like the teeth of a mowing machine. But if it appears innocent and pure, beware. With his carbon copy of the contract in hand Husk went home to give the good news to his wife. Apaches? Instant downloads of all 1715 LitChart PDFs Everything is packed, all my camping gear stored away, even my whiskers shaved off. We decide it best to climb out of The Maze before dark and save further exploration for tomorrow. Tukuhnikivats, the Island in the Desert Episodes and Visions Terra Incognita: Into the Maze Bedrock and Paradox The First Morning Solitaire The Serpents of Paradise Cliffrose and Bayonets Polemic: Industrial Tourism and The National Parks Rocks Cowboys and Indians Cowboys and Indians: Part II Similar Items This is the seventh day or is it the ninth? All summer long Husk and his son toiled over the rocks above the trickling stream of the San Rafael. Persistent as a mosquito, it will keep attacking until either it samples your blood or you succeed in killing it, or both. I light a burner on the stove and hold the boots upside down above the flame until they are malleable enough to force my feet into. It looks like it might go. Courteously I declined the intended honor of the comparison: not yet, I said, not quite. With good reason. While Mackie indulged himself in a smoke I looked at the scenery, staring out from under the shelter of my hat brim. Paradox and bedrock. When Husk was nearly close enough to reach the toes of his boots Mr. Graham shot him again, this time in the head and with the rifle. I come to the North Window, a great opening fifty feet high in a wall of rock, through which I see the clouded sky and the hazy mountains and feel the funneled rush of the wind. Exploring a side canyon off Havasu Canyon one day, I was unable to resist the temptation to climb up out of it onto what corresponds in that region to the Tonto Bench. I stop at one of the largest of these pools, undress and plunge in. Or the departing Indians, having no domesticated animals except dogs, may simply have been unable to carry away all of their possessions. I couldnt stand there all afternoon. And thus through language create a whole world, corresponding to the other world out there. There are three small camp grounds, each with tables, fireplaces, garbage cans and pit toilets. Puddles of quicksand lay ahead of us. beardless Utes? I cross the swinging footbridge over Salt Creek, pestered on the way by a couple of yellow cowflies (cattlemen call them deerflies). No matter, its of slight importance. I whistled and they stopped again, staring at me. Sheer carelessness a gust of wind carries a flaming piece of paper into the dried-out tangle of a willow thicket; the flames spread explosively; in a minute the mouth of the canyon is choked with smoke and fire and there is nothing I can do but get out of there, quick, as the flames rush down through the jungle toward Ralph, waiting for me in the tethered boats. While we dream and drift on the magic river the busy little men with their gargantuan appliances are hard at work, day and night, racing against the time when the people of America might possibly awake to discover something precious and irreplaceable about to be destroyed. They must learn to be quaint, picturesque and photogenic. I wanted to know. Two empty water bags flapped at the bumper. As for the remainder, they are simply the usual banal, unimaginative if well-intentioned proposals made everywhere, over and over again, in reply to the demand for a solution to the national and international miseries of mankind. That must be where Trachyte Creek comes in, I explain; if we had life jackets with us it might be a good idea to put them on now.. Staring at the moon the boy saw it surrounded with hazy rings, rust-colored. Everything else they needed, from boots to beans, perhaps even the jeep, must have been brought in by way of the river, for this camp is a long long way from any road known to the mapmakers. For my own part I am pleased enough with surfaces in fact they alone seem to me to be of much importance. If we allow our own country to become as densely populated, overdeveloped and technically unified as modern Germany we may face a similar fate. The wind will not stop. The pre-Columbian Indians of the Southwest, whether hunting, making arrowpoints, going on salt-gathering expeditions or otherwise engaged, clearly enjoyed plenty of leisure time. A brook trickles down the gulch below the path, a thread of water creeping from pool to pool. We are obliged, therefore, to spread the news, painful and bitter though it may be for some to hear, that all living things on earth are kindred. It is doubtful, however, that the Navajo way of life, as distinguished from Navajos, can survive. By taking off my shoes and digging my toes in the sand I made contact with that larger world an exhilarating feeling which leads to equanimity. The view is open and perfect in all directions except to the west where the ground rises and the skyline is only a few hundred yards away. Hard work for game-legged Newcomb but he makes no complaint. It was all foreseen nearly half a century ago by the most cold-eyed and clear-eyed of our national poets, on Californias shore, at the end of the open road. And again. On with the death march. What are you doing out here, you old fool?. Green sweet fresh succulent grass, Moon-Eye, what do you think of that, eh?. Petrified wood is also common in the canyon country. But they wont stay, they have promises to keep and must leave, and soon theyre driving off in the water-truck over the rocky road to the highway and Moab. Each man in his humor. The young are more adaptable and under the pressure to survive may learn to turn tricks for the tourist trade. After the necessary soporific smoke and a weary conversation we unroll our sleeping bags and go to bed. The trees are in shadow but above the forest shafts of sunlight fan out across the blue. A hundred yards down the wash I can see the culvert, displaced by the flood and half-buried in quicksand ought to anchor that thing. Carnotite, a greenish-yellow ore, is a complex mineral containing radon gas, vanadium and uranium. Nice for pictures but my God Im glad I dont have to live here., Im glad too, sir. No of stillness, peace. And probably the last. I put on a coat and step outside. Your chances of dying, in case of sickness. For ceremony. A farewell? How can you exploit a man who enjoys his work? Look at this in my hand, Moon-Eye.. Precisely what did those two enraptured gopher snakes have in mind when they came gliding toward my eyes over the naked sandstone? And there is the Water Carrier, the Sea Goat, the Ram, the Whale and last, least and most obscure Musca the Fly, about halfway between Aries and the Pleiades, hard to see, scorned by the astrologers, neglected by all but me, a tiny group so far away that they may be already extinct, dead, extinguished, reminding us only by these last dim signals of their former existence. All that I can be certain of at this moment is that the sun is down, for there is Venus again, planet of beauty and joy, glowing bright and clear in the western sky, low on the horizon, brilliant and steady and serene. From the bar they moved to a table in the corner where Mr. Graham produced a large tectonic map and explained to Husk as well as he could (for Husk had only the dimmest notions of geology) what the prospects were for making fresh uranium discoveries in the Colorado Plateau. Obsidian, turquoise, calcite, feldspar, hornblende, pyrope, tourmaline, porphyry, arkose, rutile. Moon-Eye, I said, approaching slowly, one short step, a pause, another step, how long since youve stuck that ugly face of yours into a bucket of barley and bran? Who was Rilke? His only request is that they cut their strings first. It is the driest season of a dry country. No matter, its all one to me and the red dust of Utah. When I take him outside into the wind and sunshine his favorite place seems to be inside my shirt, where he wraps himself around my waist and rests on my belt. There is no compelling reason, for example, why tourists need to drive their automobiles to the very brink of the Grand Canyons south rim. The rock follows hard upon me, almost at my neck. What is quicksand anyway? He tried to move and a sickening jet of pain coursed through his shoulder. Away with the old, in with the new. Through openings in the dwarf forest of pinyon and juniper we catch glimpses of hazy depths, spires, buttes, orange cliffs. Each night brought relief, enough to stir his drugged consciousness and arouse his agony. The Park Service, established by Congress in 1916, was directed not only to administer the parks but also to provide for the enjoyment of same in such manner and by such means as will leave them unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations. 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